How ARNIA MADE IN ITALY mitigates Supply Chain Legal Risks in Fashion :  A Pro Veritate Legal Opinion

“Legal liability in fashion is shifting from the subcontractor to the Brand (Supply Chain). Here is how ARNIA MADE IN ITALY is leading with governance.”

In light of the recent Italian case law and regulatory focus on the fashion industry’s supply chain legal risks, ARNIA MADE IN ITALY – a nonprofit social cooperative based in the textile district of Northern Italy – elaborate a parere pro veritate form (authoritative legal opinion) to assess its exposure to legal risks under art. 603-bis c.p. (unlawful labour intermediation and exploitation) and art. 34 D.lgs. 159/2011 (judicial administration of companies).

The legal opinion form offers valuable insights for any fashion company seeking to understand its risk exposure under the new legal paradigm.

Legal Framework: What is at stake?

Article 603-bis c.p. penalizes both direct and indirect labour exploitation, including underpayment, excessive work hours, unsafe conditions, and intimidation, even when occurring through subcontracting.

Article 34 of Legislative Decree 159/2011 allows the preventive measure of judicial administration to be imposed on companies that, even through negligence, facilitate criminal organisations or labour exploitation, especially where internal control systems have proven ineffective.

Recent cases before the Tribunale di Milano (notably Armani, Alviero Martini, Uber Italy) have shown that even prestigious fashion companies may be subject to this measure due to what is known as organisational fault (colpa organizzativa).

the Original DOCUMENTS – the facts

Tribunale Milano / 2020 – Uber

Tribunale Milano / 2024 – Alviero Martini

Tribunale Milano / 2024 – ARMANI

Tribunale Milano / 2024 – VALENTINO

ARNIA MADE IN ITALY’s Position: Analysis of Exposure

The legal opinion form makes clear that ARNIA MADE IN ITALY’s structure and mission – a nonprofit cooperative aimed at employing disadvantaged individuals through sustainable textile production – is in strong compliance with Italian and EU legal standards.

The opinion highlights:

  • No evidence of labour exploitation in ARNIA’s supply chain or internal operations.
  • Voluntary adoption of traceability, fair remuneration and safety practices.
  • A workforce composed of min 30% of socially vulnerable individuals legally employed with certified ESG impact (verified annually from Ministry of Made in Italy).

Furthermore, ARNIA MADE IN ITALY has adopted (original documents on website / TRANSPARENCY) :

  • A Whistleblowing Policy and Code of Ethics;
  • A system of documented supply chain audits;

These elements support the exclusion of both subjective and objective requisites for liability under the current penal framework.

Preventive Compliance for the Supply Chain: The 231 Model and Protocol of Milan

To further strengthen its position, ARNIA is considering to adopt a dedicated MOG 231 (Organisational Model under Legislative Decree 231/2001) specifically addressing the risk of violations of art. 603-bis c.p.. This includes:

  • Mandatory due diligence and onboarding procedures for all suppliers (not just for the GOTS certified productions);
  • Contractual clauses with ethical requirements and breach remedies;
  • Regular training of staff involved in procurement and production inspection.

Moreover, ARNIA is fully aligned with the directions of Protocollo Moda Milano 2025, a public-private pact led by the Prefecture of Milan to restore legality and transparency in the fashion supply chain. It includes:

  • The creation of a supply chain platform with verified supplier profiles;
  • The issuance of a “Green List” (bollino verde) for transparent companies;
  • Shared standards for audits and ESG conformity.

Legal Risks Matrix for ARNIA (Summary)

Area Legal Risk Likelihood Severity
Supplier audit compliance Low Low Medium
Labour law violations Very low Low High
Exposure to art. 603-bis c.p. Very low (excluded) Very Low High
Risk of art. 34 D.lgs. 159 Very low (prevented) Very Low Very High

Conclusion

The legal opinion form concludes that ARNIA MADE IN ITALY cannot be deemed liable for labour exploitation nor for organisational negligence, thanks to:

  • The documented preventive measures;
  • Its non-profit legal form and social mission;
  • A traceable, ethical, short supply chain integrated with audited procedures.

In a legal landscape where fashion brands are increasingly held accountable for their subcontractors, ARNIA emerges not only as compliant but as a model for ethical fashion governance.

Want to learn more? Visit our Sustainability & Ethics section at madeinitaly.social or download our full ESG Assessment 2024 / BILANCIO SOCIALE 2024 (TRANSPARENCY)

or even better CONTACT US

author avatar
Carlo Rola CEO / Commercial Manager / Sustainability Risk Manager
Carlo Rola President of the Board, Commercial Manager & Sustainability Risk Manager at ARNIA – Società Cooperativa Sociale Made in Italy Carlo Rola is a textile professional with more than 35 years of experience in the Italian textile and fashion industry. Elected by ARNIA’s members to the Board of Directors, he currently serves as President of the Board, Commercial Manager and Sustainability Risk Manager. He leads the cooperative’s commercial relationships with premium fashion brands, buyers and qualified startups across luxury fabric development, Cut & Sew, fashion project management and certified, traceable Made in Italy production. ARNIA is a member-governed Type B social cooperative whose enterprise model combines textile expertise, environmental responsibility and the work inclusion of people facing disadvantage, vulnerability and barriers to employment.